A fork off the national highway winds up the mountains to the famed town of Nirmand. The first glimpses of the place are deceptive as there is a much older history to this place. A famed copper plate inscription, the legend of a warrior Brahmin Parashuram, and surviving fragments of wooden houses all conjure up a place with urban character. The few stone fragments and scale of houses suggests a vibrant settlement that existed at one point here that clearly outgrew the rural or mountain worldviews. The winds of change though are turning over whatever remains of that old Nirmand replaced by anonymous modernity.